Speeder reassembly

The time has come for me to reassemble the speeder. Obvs I have left this long enough to ensure I've forgotten how it comes apart and thus goes back together again. But we like a challenge.

Anyway, here are all the bits:

Firstly I will need to reassemble this angular contact bearing which came apart during disassembly:

...then refit the (matched pair) thrust bearings to the output shaft.

The locknut proved a bit of a twat to tighten, partly due to the deformed collar (used to lock it into the slot) and partly due to the nut being fairly insubstantial. From what I can tell, the Knipex adjustable grip ended up squashing the nut, causing it to bind. Anyway, I got there in the end.

Now I need to fit the planet gears in the carrier. Each has a needle bearing and a couple of brass / bronze thrust washers. I can push them in using a small vise:

But one of the thrust washers has been worn down, almost to a wafer. I have a piece of brass that is big enough, so it's lathe time. I don't have the Tree set up for toolpost drilling yet, so it's over to the Bantam for this one.

Drill out 14mm and turn down to 24mm:

Then part off a 1.2mm length to form a washer.

That did the trick.

I cleaned out all of the bearings with brake cleaner. Now I need to regrease them somewhat. Although it looks as if I have fully packed them with grease, in fact the grease is only present on one side of the bearing, so the fill factor is probably less than 30-40% or so.

The planet gears and their carrier go in before the output shaft, unless you want to disassemble it all over again. Luckily I remembered this.

Finally back together, so time to fit the ISO40 / M16 adaptor, held in with some low strength Loctite.

The output shaft seems to be fitted with  Clarkson Autolock (small) collet. John Stevenson had made up an adaptor that fits the Autolock collet at one end and accepts ER11 collets at the other. It's actually composed of an ER11 collet chuck with a taper socket on the end. There's a mating tapered element with the required 5/8" x 20tpi thread - no idea where this came from. It looks like this

So finally here it is back together again.

Here are the Autolock collet and the ER11 collet chuck.

Nobody uses Autolock cutters any more, as they require a 20tpi thread on the chuck end of the cutter. Nowadays people prefer to use ER collet chucks, Weldon shank cutters, hydraulic chucks etc.

In my case, this speeder would tend to be used only for small diameter cutters under 3-4mm diameter, so an ER11 collet would be quite appropriate. This Autolock-to-ER11 adaptor is rather helpful. It's just a pity there's only one of them here and I can't see anything similar on the internet.

Back in their rightful place

Torque / reaction arm:

Speeders require something to prevent the body spinning, rather than the intended output shaft. This takes the form of some form of reaction arm and a fixed vertical rod for it to work against.

As noted, I previously made up a reaction arm for my tapping head for use with The Shiz. This also required me to make up a torque arm to prevent the chuck body from spinning. In the end, I decided that a tension-compression tapping chuck was a far better solution, so the tapping chuck was flung into the tooling rack, never to be used again.

Here's the chuck with its torque arm...

...and the rod that the torque arm picks up on, held up against the speeder in roughly the right position. 

It's got a machined bore to fit the quill of The Shiz and is held on with a pinch bolt. However, as you might expect, the pinch bolt block would foul the body of the speeder in its current form. It's upside down here but you can see that there would be a problem if I flipped it so that the rod pointed down, as would normally do.

So it looks as if I'll need to do some surgery here. It feels to me that I will need to hack off the existing pinch bolt block and fit something more (axially) space-efficient. Doesn't look like the end of the world but needs a bit more buggerage before we are done here.