As this is a complete one-off exercise, there's no need to do any fancy design work. Some of my past projects have required a fair bit of CAD work up front, to ensure they would actually work when I made them. They really weren't the sort of job where you just make a part, then figure out the next part and eventually end up with a finished item. I'm keen to get this up and running without prevaricating or agonising over it for weeks (= wasting time). So this is a case for marking positions with pen and masking tape, then centre punching / scribing positions and getting on with cutting metal. If I make a mistake I will have another go and hopefully nobody will die in the process.
I drilled out the tapping holes 2.5mm on the Blidgeport so they were nice and square, then set the machine to low range and power tapped the holes with a spiral point M3 tap. It's always a bit risky drilling holes into a finned heatsink. Even if you try to avoid the edges of the fins, there are usually a few you can't stay completely clear of. Anyway, job done, holes deburred with a countersink and the modules trial fitted with some cap head screws.
With the new holes and the original Hitachi holes, it resembles a piece of black Emmental cheese. It all seems to fit, with room for the various cables and connectors.
Finally, I removed the chassis plate and marked it out to take the terminal blocks I scavanaged from the original control cabinet. These are 18 ways each on a 9.5mm pitch, so ideal for terminating the incoming wirings from the servo motors, switches etc. I have some handy 3.7mm forked crimps that will fit nicely. Again, the holes were drilled and tapped on the Blidgeport (M4).
Before I consider the chassis plate finished I will need to drill and tap holes for several solid state relays (SSRs) to control the drawbar solenoid, coolant pump etc. The PSU caps, diode bridge etc will fit on a handy little side tray.
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